Riley’s has been the epicentre of both national and local praise. On a 2016 visit, the ever-effusive Jay Rayner proclaimed, “I have found the eating experience of the year”, whilst GQs Milicia West announces Riley’s provides an “ode to honest fish cookery.” The food does satisfy both its own merit, and the middle-class palate of its consumer base, yet it is not pretentious or frivolous. Meaty Halibut licked by the open flame of utility-scale barbecues, creamy poached Dover Sole married with punchy pickled salad and gorgeously soft sourdough bread sticks, or aubergine empanadas; take your pick from the remarkably expansive menu.
Solid, hearty seafood and crisp, sharp Sauvignon is enough to warm any mans cockles, but Riley’s is experientially so much more than good grub. Deckchairs pepper the soft shore, allowing one to simultaneously enjoy the sunset whilst also exercising a somewhat watchful eye on the hordes of beach revellers between plate and ocean, though in a nosy, not voyeuristic sense. Allow me to explain, for during our visit we bore witness to after-dark DJ-ing, heated volleyball matches, and seagull attacks (of which we were warned by our friendly and warm waitress). Perhaps apart from the sparkling cabarets of Parisian dance halls, or the exclusive Soho clubs frequented by the chic bourgeoise, where else can you enjoy such magnificently varied entertainment whilst you dine?
Riley’s is experientially so much more than good grub.
Speaking of which, service was provided by a collective of stylish 20-something-year-olds, always threatening to become slightly too casual, but nevertheless punctually delivering a steady stream of produce. All food, whether it be aphrodisiac Oysters for appetisers, grilled fish with salted, garlicky potatoes, or indulgent brownies for dessert, is served al-fresco in utilitarian cardboard containers. This could be a cost-cutting measure, or a concerted desire to save the soap-soaked hands of the poor kitchen porter, but I like to imagine Riley’s envisioned bringing a flavour of the traditional seaside chippy with their somewhat temporary packaging.
Riley’s delivers solid, polished, neat seafood in equally picturesque and atmospheric surroundings, to provide a culinary portrait of contemporary Tyneside; bustling, burgeoning, and unabashedly wholesome.
Riley’s is open year-round, serving an extensive menu encompassing both small plates and main meal options. A meal for two of appetisers and mains cost £90 (including wine), although please note that a £25 booking deposit is required in advance.
