In 2022, Karlsson’s commandment of AVAVAV’s Spring 2023 collection surprised viewers as models heels on the runway started to break as part of her show “Filthy Rich”. As they walked down the runway models were dressed in a range of outfits, fur coats, her iconic monster claw boots and one model even wearing three Rolexes.
Karlsson wanted to display a satirical critique of high fashion’s insistence on the importance of showing wealth through fashion
Her reasoning? Karlsson wanted to display a satirical critique of high fashion’s insistence on the importance of showing wealth through fashion. By placing large logos and excessive bling onto clothing, she wished critique the value high-end brands place on wealth.
In AVAVAV's recent show at Milan Fashion Week 2023 entitled “Fake it till you break it”, Karlsson went even further. As models walked the runway their outfits started to fall apart, with some of the model’s clothes being periodically pulled from them by invisible strings.
Karlsson was intrigued by the role of quality and craftsmanship, and similarly to her earlier show, she wanted to explore the theme of authenticity.
Karlsson looks to the historical definition of luxury as something that was overwhelmingly a lifestyle, whereas she believes that we have entered an era where luxury can simply be an attitude. She states that even “worn out Balenciaga sneakers, expensive tracksuits or upcycled ragged coats” can be worn in a luxurious way and that for her, an individual’s authenticity can be the greatest accessory.
The statement has also been interpreted by social media as a critique of fast fashion’s reliance on cheap unethical labour.
Viewers have been quick to realise the irony of a high fashion brand such as AVAVAV promoting anything that critiques high-end fashion houses, as it is a high-end brand itself, and occupies the same space and status.
Viewers have been quick to realise the irony of a high fashion brand such as AVAVAV promoting anything that critiques high-end fashion houses
However, by using her space as a designer to play with performance on runways, Karlsson is prompting the inclusion of critical thinking within high fashion brands.
Karlsson’s shows have caught the attention of the media, and therefore leading by example, AVAVAV could arguable be placing pressure on other high-end or couture brands in order to analyse what values they align themselves with.
