Neighbouring Spain and the Portuguese Algarve have been the British tourists’ chosen destination for many years, but Lisbon is becoming increasingly more popular and spoken about online as an up and coming location. You know the yellow trams, the seven (massive) hills and the buttery custard delights Pasteis de Nata that the city offers up to tourists every year, but there is so much more to be discovered below the surface.
Portugal was under an ‘Estado Novo’ dictatorship for over 40 years, and 40 years ago this year the city was witness to the ‘Carnation Revolution’ which put the end to the possession of Portuguese colonies across Africa. The Portuguese history is a complicated one, tainted with saudade (a longing or melancholy feeling characteristic of Portuguese temperament) which is now reflected in the city’s intricately tiled buildings and monuments, its cobbled streets, right up to the food and the many pints of Super Bock served up in the capital every day.
With increasing tourist numbers in the last few years, the city is buzzing with tourists all year round, but remains relatively cheap throughout the season. There are many hostels scattered across the centre, but for a more authentic, and cheaper experience areas like Alameda, Anjos and Intendente a little further out are ideal. The city caters for every budget, but it's notably cheap to get around with an easy to navigate metro system which ferries people directly from the airport to the centre and an abundance of e-scooters meaning that central stays aren't essential.
The city is colourful and very rarely spoiled by the rain and the wind despite its Atlantic coast location, with famous waves fit for any surfing fanatics at beaches located less than half an hour out of the centre. With up to 250 days of sun annually, it's ideal for those who prefer to terrace or quiosque hop. Quiosque culture is big no matter the season and whether it's during the day or into the evening, locals and tourists alike spill onto the streets to enjoy a drink and indulge in some Portuguese confectionary. Lisbon may not be the first city that comes to mind when you think of food, although the freshness of Portuguese cuisine, its proximity to the coast and a nation of passionate foodies are the perfect recipe for a memorable plate or ten. The nation was built on cod and it can be found everywhere. Tinned fish emporiums or conserveiras have been feeding Lisboetas for generations, but a bifana (pork) sandwich lathered in mustard with a bottle of Super Bock on the river can’t be beaten. And of course who could forget Belém has to be visited for its pasteis too.
Miradouros are what Lisbon specialises in and a trip to Lisbon simply wouldn’t be complete without them. These viewpoints, perfect for sunset spotting, are round every corner and without a doubt the best way to take in the city. Santa Luzia and Portas do Sol atop the winding streets of Alfama are some of the most popular, but suffer from the swarms of cruise day-trippers that frequent the port hill top. Graça, and particularly the Cafe de Garagem, capture the views of the city framed by Lisbon’s answer to the Golden Gate Bridge - O Ponte 25 de Abril.
It would be almost impossible to capture Lisbon’s essence only in words. A city full of life for the living and seizing everything that is thrown its way. It may not have had the easiest of pasts and continues to confront its own issues, but I can assure you there is a grand selection of corners to be discovered, and you will not be disappointed. I guess the only answer is to book a flight and see the magic for itself; you can tell me I’m not so biased after all!
Hit some of the top spots at:
(just to name a few...)
