Essaouira: Paradise in Morocco

Morocco is quickly becoming one of the most popular destinations for holidaymakers, and for good reason. The Atlas mountain range is akin to some of the peaks found in Nepal, the bustling souks of Fez and Marrakech are as vibrant as any market found in South-East Asia, the surf culture of Agadir and Taghazout rivals Hawaii and Portugal, and the dramatic Sahara is as accessible from Ouazarzate as it is from Egypt. But having now visited on two separate occasions, both in high summer and midwinter last year, the standout part of Morocco for me is the seaside town of Essaouira.

A place where the Atlantic meets the Sahara and the relaxed vibe of European surfers meets historic Moroccan culture, Essaouira takes a variety of different atmospheres and just makes it work. Known as the Wind City of Africa, it attracts multitudes of wind and kite surfers, alongside conventional surfers, usually between April and November. It is this wind that keeps the weather so balmy. Whilst more inland cities can clock temperatures up to the sweaty mid-40 degrees Celsius in the summer and then experience snow in the winter, Essaouira’s temperatures remain in the mid-20’s all year round, making it perfect for winter sun, or as a welcome break from the scorching Saharan heat in the summer.

This weather is perfect to take a dip in the sea, ride a camel along the length of the expansive beach, browse the souks selling everything from traditional leather and pottery to football shirts in the Medina, or simply relax in the main square and watch the world go by with a ubiquitous Moroccan mint tea. As for beaches, you can choose between the more popular southern beach, with its long promenade, surf shops and camels. Or for the vast, uninhabited Safi beach which lies to the north, with the beach and its endless miles of dramatic sand dunes practically guaranteed to yourself.

I originally visited for three days in the summer as a solo traveller, as a detour from the main cities of the interior of Morocco. I was captivated by the old harbour, where the fleets of bright blue fishing boats head out each day, and bring back fresh fish, eels and other seafood to sell in the hectic market. I hired a board from one of the countless surf shops that populate the promenade, and surfed until the sun went down. At night, when the Medina comes alive, we ate at Moroccan restaurants and sampled fresh tagines and couscous.

A flight back home meant I was torn away, but I was determined to come back, and sure enough I did with my family just before Christmas last year. This time, we stayed inside the historic walls of the Medina and enjoyed the low costs and high temperatures that a Moroccan winter bring. From these same historic walls, we watched the sun set each night over the islands in the bay from the balcony on our traditional riad. Essaouira’s idyllic charm means that won’t be my last trip to the vibrant contradiction on the western coast of Morocco.