The Small Canteen brings both elegance and comfort. The chalk board detailing three simplistically described options per course caters for vegetarians and pescatarians alike, with the dishes varying depending on the produce available. A foodie’s paradise? Definitely. If you’re looking for a more unique eatery on these cold evenings, The Small Canteen is for you. With starters and desserts coming in at £8, it’s not the cheapest, but the quality of cuisine provided makes up for that.
A quick word of warning for the claustrophobes out there. The cosy atmosphere I speak of comes at a price. Though the sacrifice of personal space can be a biggy for some, sharing one l-shaped table with other diners was another way to amp up the intimacy, with all 15 sittings filled. There are bar stools for those who aren’t up for the full experience, but beware, if you need to venture to the bathroom, you will be taking a quick trip out of the restaurant into the cold. The space issues were the only real negatives I picked up on from others, but to me was an exciting new dining experience I was dying to try.
The Small Canteen brings both elegance and comfort
Taking my mum along with me, an avid food-lover herself, we were greeted with a snug ambiance and friendly waitress. Waiting for us was a gorgeous bread basket and a choice of three spreads, a sort of creamy red pepper relish, richly garlicky pesto and buttery aioli. A big win in my eyes. To start, we chose to share the duck croquettes with pickled quince as well as the leek and cheddar tart. The Small Canteen is a perfect example of ‘simple but effective.’ I don’t want you to get the wrong idea, however. The flavours of these starters were at the same level I have had at more snazzy establishments. The sweetly pickled quince paired with the rich, soft croquettes was a match made in heaven that never crossed my mind. The luxurious abundance of cheesiness within the tart was perfection and the sweet and sticky mystery additions on the plate, perhaps figs or prunes, left me deeply impressed. Both starters were dressed with micro-greens bringing it together as a great start to our meal.
Opting for the braised mutton, accompanied by butternut squash and tender stem, I thought I would push the boat out as someone who’s not a massive lamb fan. Boy, was that a good decision. The mutton was falling apart and the full-bodied jus was delicious. The al dente tender stem and butternut squash were welcome additions, despite needing slightly more seasoning, cutting through the savouriness of the mutton. Being blessed with substantial portions, we had to politely decline a third course, though I will most certainly be back to try their puds, with the pear and polenta cake, served with honey and pistachio ice cream looking particularly delightful.
Overall, though one of the smallest restaurants I have ever visited, the flavours are immense and concept impeccable. I will most certainly be back.