The gentrification of charity and vintage shops

Secondhand shopping is slowly becoming the norm however it's popularity has bought about concerns about gentrification

Amelie Overton
4th November 2022
We all love a bargain. The adrenaline you feel when you spot the perfect dress is accompanied by the perfect price tag, later followed by the feminine unity of boasting about the cheap price of your garment when complimented by friends or strangers. However, whilst most of us in some way have been affected by the current cost of living crisis, it’s now more important than ever to start questioning ourselves about what we can do to help others. People who, quite frankly, are struggling to survive.  

Gentrification is the process whereby a poor area is changed by wealthier people moving in. A gentrified, ‘posh’ town can be recognised by a high street flooded with ‘instagrammable’ cafes, vintage boutiques and charity shops. Whereas a typical, working-class area may be identified by a high street full of betting shops and takeaways. But which areas need charity shops more?  

Buying second-hand clothes from charity shops has become both normalised and very trendy within Gen-Z. It’s undeniably more impressive than buying clothes from a high-street shop. Gen-Z has placed lots of emphasis on sustainability in our everyday lives, to reverse the damage done to the planet by previous generations. We have been forced to make amendments - from eating less meat, to using bamboo toothbrushes and metal straws. A popular way of being sustainable is rejecting fast fashion and buying more second-hand clothes. 

Image: Instagram @vinted

With Channel 4’s recent exposure of budget-friendly, online clothing store Shein – paying workers just three pence per item made - there becomes limited choices of clothing outlets serving people with lower incomes in the UK. The documentary also highlights the terrible working conditions of employees, meaning charity shops are one of the last hopes for these people to shop both ethically and cheaply.  

A huge contribution to the second-hand clothing ‘trend’ is the acceleration of Depop – the biggest online retail app for second-hand clothing, which states they are ‘the community-powered fashion ecosystem that’s kinder on the planet and kinder to the people.’ The sheer popularity of this app is the most significant factor in the gentrification of charity and vintage shops. Just take one look on the app and you will see multiple ‘vintage’ clothing brands selling secondhand clothes, typically at extortionate prices.   

Image: Instagram @depop

The catch is, more so than not, these clothes tend to be bought from local charity shops with the intent to resell. This business strategy is tempting as the potential turnover is huge. Some may say that this entrepreneurial approach is beneficial to society because the money goes to charity, and we all must make money somehow. This is a valid point, as primarily there is nothing wrong with wealthier people buying bits‘n’bobs from charity and vintage shops. After all, we all love a bargain!   

The real problem lies with wealthier people taking significant amounts of the not-so-wealthy's resources. Whilst they may be oblivious to the detrimental societal damage this causes, leading to prices escalating and resources becoming significantly limited, poorer people struggle more. 

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